Category Archives: memories

Holiday decorations arrayed on a table, featured a variety of folk figures.

Only Olivia

When I began my first position at the Smithsonian in spring 1987, the work area at our old L’Enfant Plaza location was “open concept before it was cool” – just a big space with lots of desks jammed into it, populated by an assortment of seasonal Festival workers, fellows and maybe some interns. One of this motley (or should I say pre-Motley?) group was a research fellow named Olivia Cadaval.

I remember thinking she was kind of aloof, quiet but with an intense stare that sometimes made me think she didn’t like me very much. Which only goes to show you, first impressions are not always true! Yes, she was focused, but as I found out over the 30+ years we subsequently worked with one another, one of the kindest, funniest and most compassionate people I could ever hope to know.

Olivia passed away last week, and I began to think back to some of our encounters and adventures, and things I learned from her over the years. I looked through photos, but mostly came up with snaps of events at her home, or at the Festival, where Olivia was never taking center stage, which was fitting. She worked a lot in the margins, behind the scenes, making sure everything was ready, everyone was comfortable and had what they needed, and setting stages for everything from lively parties to difficult conversations.

Thanks to Olivia and her belief in my knowledge/expertise/potential usefulness to various projects, I got to travel many places and meet many people I never would have otherwise. From the U.S. Virgin Islands, to all along the Mexican Border, I gladly came along for some of the best rides of my work life. And thanks to her friendship, which led to invites to communal meals and the best holiday party of the season (the annual 3 Kings, featuring “green soup” that I craved all year before and afterwards), I had lively conversations with old friends and an eclectic group of new acquaintances in her home in Mount Pleasant, a setting that was warm, eccentrically decorated, and perfectly reflective her her personality and many interests.

Olivia expected things of you, as a friend and as a colleague. Not things she didn’t think you could deliver, but things that sometimes challenged you and threw you out of your comfort zone. For instance, one of my favorite stories is the time in 2005 that we flew to San Diego to travel to the US/Mexico border in Calexico-Mexicali as part of a grant project to introduce the Borderlands educational materials to teachers and students on both sides.

After gathering up a group of the participating artists who were part of the project, we proceeded to the car rental agency to pick up the 18-passenger van to drive 120 miles to Calexico. It occurred to me that I had no idea who was supposed to drive this behemoth. When I asked Olivia, she said, “You are, of course.” (Needless to say, this had not been discussed at any point earlier in the planning or execution of the trip. )

And so, over the narrow mountain roads, and then around and around the streets of Calexico, I ferried our rolling ship, under the guidance of our capable Captain Olivia. I followed her on many more adventures over the years, sharing the major ups and downs of life and work, being supervised in the best of ways, and always rising to whatever she expected of me as well as I was able. She inspired the best in us. She made us realize we were more capable than we might think, most times by being the best example.

All of us who knew and loved Olivia will sorely miss her, but we will be sharing our experiences and our favorite funny and poignant stories about her for the rest of our days, keeping her memory alive.

[I couldn’t find a lot of photos of Olivia in my electronic files, but as I have more time to go through other sources, I may add more. But we really don’t need a lot of photos to evoke our memories.]

When our office hosted the cultural exchange of five Bengali artists in summer of 2018, Olivia graciously opened her home for a dinner which was also a cooking lesson in making tortillas from scratch. Our group of interns helped with the cooking, and the musicians enjoyed trying out the many folk instruments hanging about (literally) her living room. Here she holds thrall with several interns under her tutelage.
Another view of the kitchen, Olivia at the stove, with back to camera. This time she was hosting a group of friends/former colleagues at Folklife at a potluck supper. Lots of good food, laughter, and gossip. We were able to share some time with Olivia at her home before her final illness, making plans to do it again soon, which will sadly never come now. But we will gather in her memory I am sure.

Fun with Vegetables

Your mother always told you not to play with your food. But what fun is that? As I contemplate the chore of transplanting this season’s way-too-successful seedling growing endeavor – over a hundred hardy little tomatoes and peppers outgrowing their initial seed cells – I pause to take a look at having fun with vegetables.

Growing vegetables is fun, for one thing. It is amazing to see baby plants emerge from tiny seeds, and become sturdy little plants and eventually plants that can reach taller than my husband (who is more or less 6’3″). Last year (after watching a lot of YouTube videos) he even constructed a method of lowering the plants via a sort of pulley to get at the ripe tomatoes on the tallest plants, which sounds crazy but actually works.

Cooking vegetables can be fun, too. I try to cook with a lot of vegetables, and I’m always looking for inspiration and new recipes. During the pandemic, a group of friends and I got together via Zoom to cook every once in awhile. Since we are (still) in far-flung places, we have continued the practice. Vegetables are often featured in the recipes, though we have been known to deviate – our latest effort was scones. (Woman cannot live by vegetables alone!)

Lastly, you can get artistically creative with vegetables. When we were in Thailand some years back, we took a cooking course which started with making roses out of tomato skins, and something out of carrots which I can’t recall now, but maybe leaves like this. Playing with your vegtables is elevated into a high art there. Though I do recall my Mom teaching us how to make “radish roses” which is the sort of low art form in comparison.

Here are some of the vegetable pix I came up with when I did a search in my Google photos. They cover some of the above, plus a couple more fun vegetable moments. Eat your vegetables, but don’t forget to have fun with them, too!

My friend Lucy on Zoom, flanked by a beautiful Indian curry full of vegetables that my friend Cathy guided us through. (Other participants include friends Sue and Arlene.) We cook, drink wine, show each other the results, and then gossip while eating our creations together. Fun!
One of my favorite ways to enjoy a medley of vegetables, and sometimes shrimp or other protein, is wrapped into a Vietnamese summer roll. We have a group of visiting Vietnamese scholars over for a splendid dinner last fall, and were shown how to do this correctly. Though mine sometimes still resemble overstuffed burritos in rice paper!
When visiting Tunisia in 2023, my traveling companions and I discovered a salad is not a salad without tuna in it. I think they sort of consider tuna another vegetable there. At least they cannot seem to fathom why vegetarians want their salads without it…
Some vegetables are just plain “big fun”! This monstrosity was seen at the Fulton County Fair in McConnellsburg, PA a few years back.
My friend Peggy and I call these artistic arrangements of fall vegetables “squash medleys.” We researched this practice around Indiana many years ago, and still send each other photos of the best ones we encounter each year.
My friend Mary made this simple but very effective Radish Mouse which I think is a lot more fun than radish roses!
Last but not least, I had a lot of fun creating this collage of vegetables for a card I sent someone. (Can’t remember who!) Seed catalogues are a great collage inspiration! FYI, the “featured image” at the top of the page is a snap of a very lovely roasted vegetable plate my husband ordered at an Indian restaurant in Jersey City, NJ a few years back!

Let There Be…Light!

This winter has been even more dark and cold than usual. I think that’s why many of the houses in our neighborhood still had their winter holiday lights shining every evening well into February.

When darkness, physical or mental, creeps into our collective lives along with the cold, it is somewhat helpful to think of all things that brighten our interiors and exteriors.

Last Friday, my husband and I took in an inspiring light show at the National Cathedral. The whole open interior of the cathedral was illuminated with shapes and colors that changed every ten or so minutes, with calming music in the background. Butterflies danced on the columns, leaves on the ceiling. The rose window was bathed in purples and greens. Somehow even individual creases of stone in each arch were highlighted. It was a magical 45-ish minute cycle, with people of all ages oohing and aahing, walking around or lying on the floor gazing up.

This made me think about light, in general, which had touched me personally in the past few years. So, as one can do, I did a search through my photos with the term “light” and thought I would share some of what I found. Some are actual lights and some reference light. Join me on a brief photo tour of some of my favorite finds, and if you are inspired, do a search for light in your own photo files. It might warm you up as well as light your way toward spring, and hope.

Just before COVID closed down the world in 2019, my husband and daughter and I took a trip to Guadalajara, Mexico in February. We had dinner with friends at this imaginatively lit restaurant. We were enchanted by the city, and our winter getaway to somewhere warm, in a time of light before the darkness that was the pandemic.
In July of 2022, I had the privilege of traveling with a group of educators to Montgomery, Alabama to several Civil Rights sights. This fountain with a quote by Ella Baker was one of our stops.
The humorous creations of my friend Peggy always light up my face with a smile. I re-collaged some of her quotes and “punchy” stickers and took a photo for posterity.
Last February, during my trip to New York City to visit friend Hanna, I marveled at the New York Historical Society’s collection of Tiffany lamps. Did you know most of them were designed by Clara Driscoll? (Of course they were designed by a woman!)
So many years have I spent taking in the Ultimate Light Show – the Fourth of July Fireworks on the National Mall, amid the tents and other features of our beloved Smithsonian Folklife Festival.
One of the brightest and most cheerful rotations of the Cathedral light show. May you all find your light in the darkness until warmth finds us again.

Keeping Things Handy

Fracturing one’s hand is a whole new learning experience. I won’t recount the stupid way this happened, except to warn everyone to beware of those low concrete parking lot delineation thingees. If one does a search about the hazards of these (more officially called Parking Barriers) you’ll see the results are mostly articles from legal firms…’nough said!?

All things considered, things could have been worse. It was a closed fracture, so just a matter of knitting itself back together instead of getting it set and/or surgery with pins and whatever. It is my non dominant hand so I can still write, and sign things (including those many medical forms they give you in the ER). Also apparently medical science has advanced to allow healing hands to wear removable braces instead of fixed casts after the initial immobilization period of a couple of weeks. (This is a huge!)

But still, there are many restrictions and work arounds. It’s largely hunt and peck typing with only one hand, so its taking me three or four times longer to write this post. But I did want to share some of what I’ve learned, in case it will help anyone else who finds themselves in this situation!

  1. Say yes to help of various kinds and get creative as to what might be most helpful. It makes people feel good to be helpful (up to a point at least). Though it also makes you feel good to try to do things by yourself as possible, assistance is very useful. For instance, my sister wanted to help from afar, so I asked her to wield her Amazon Prime membership to order me one of those plastic things you slip over a cast to take a shower. No more fumbling with plastic bags and rubber bands!! I also realized the nail polish on my good hand had to go, but I needed assistance to make that happen. (Thanks, Andrea!)

2. Put your elbow and upper arm to work. It’s amazing how useful the crook of your arm and that area below your shoulder, if that has a name, can be. Also your neck, and even your teeth (though try to avoid tooth chipping!). Still, applying deodorant and putting toothpaste on your toothbrush can be a huge challenge.

3. Always put on your coat starting with the bad hand. It’s almost impossible to do otherwise. Also, hope you have a coat somewhere in the recesses of your closet with big, manageable buttons, not a zipper. Zippers are a two handed operation. As is tying shoes, opening cans, and a bunch of other stuff you don’t even think of until you can’t do them with one hand.

4. Don’t hibernate, unless you really feel like having an excuse to do so. When friends who feel sorry for ask if they can come pick you up and go for coffee or lunch, or an opportunity to go out to a show or the movies arises with minimal energy expended on your part, take it! Otherwise you may start to feel deprived, forgotten, depressed. But, just get cozy in your pjs and fuzzy bathrobe when you feel like it. You are injured, after all, and deserve to binge Virgin River on Netflix!

Those are my major takeaways, and I really hope none of you needs to use them any time soon. Appreciate your hands, if you have two good ones, and be careful out there!

Oh! Christmas Tree

As we prepare to decorate another annual fresh (dead) Christmas tree this year, I thought it would be fun to look back on previous year’s trees. Yes, here it is the 19th of December, and unlike those people who have put their’s up the day after Thanksgiving, we have yet to procure one, much less put it up.

Back when my sister and I were small children, our parents didn’t put up the Christmas tree until Christmas Eve after we were already “nestled in our beds.” We got up the next morning and – a miracle! – there was a brightly lighted tree with presents under it, in our front room’s window seat. I think we were told that Santa had put it up as well as bringing the presents. Busy guy!

When our own daughter was young, she was in full awareness of where Christmas trees really came from, thank goodness. (Much to her chagrin, probably, since we often got our a tree from a “cut your own” lot and made her slog though the cold and snow to find “just the right one.”) The installation of the tree was a full day’s work, since it not only included the tree itself, but a large plywood platform that supported The Trains. These were, in the heyday, parallel sets of tracks with two working sets of Lionel trains, carry-overs from my husband Steve’s childhood.

Over the years, a whole village grew up to compliment the trains. Shops, churches, a small forest, a covered bridge, a skating pond, eventually a sub-village of Gingerbread People, etc. etc. were added over the years. Somewhere along the way, the thrill of the whole working train production lost its thrill, but the village continued to grow and was installed under the tree. Now, it has moved from under the tree to its own whole table space.

Looking through photos from the past ten years or so, our Christmas tree looks remarkably similar. Colored lights, and a mish-mash of decorations gathered over the years, some dating back to my and my husband’s childhoods. (Maybe next year I will break these down into eras and explain some of them, but not now.) The top is not an angel, or a lighted Santa Claus like our childhood tree top, but a funky looking, insanely grinning face reminiscent of The Nightmare Before Christmas (one of our favorite holiday shows).

One last quirky family Christmas tree tradition to share before photos…For years, my mom would come to us for Christmas, and then we would drive together after Christmas to my sister’s (at first in Connecticut, then South Carolina) for the Christmas after Christmas. My husband’s family always celebrated on January 6, Orthodox or “Old” Christmas, so it was all about my family until then.

When she could no longer travel easily, we started driving to South Carolina, her retirement destination, to do the holiday there. By then my sister had moved there too. Which means, no point in putting up a tree until we returned. Long story short, we started realizing that 1) getting a (once real) tree at that point was next to impossible, and 2) other people around our area were actually “kicking their own trees to the curb” starting December 26! You see where I am going with this? Yes, recycling is a wonderful thing.

Here’s hoping everyone reading this enjoys their winter holidays. Take a break, breathe, reminisce and relax. Eat lots of cookies and other things you will regret later. Play games and watch corny holiday movies. And let’s hope we all find some peace in 2025. Here are a few Christmas tree moments in photos! Feel free to share some of your own holiday decor memories in the comments.

Me at age six or seven-ish amid the Christmas spoils. My mother looking tough or maybe just exhausted? I still have “Louie Saint Louie” the stuffed animal I am clutching. The tree used to look so huge when I was that small…but I realize now that to get a tree on top of the window seat, it must have been fairly short!
Our daughter M.E. around the same age, maybe a little younger, “rocking around the Christmas tree.” The trains are in the middle of set-up here, but you get the idea. (And, yes, she does actually have arms!)
Classic Belanus/Francis tree, from a year when we put the village up around the base. Cotton snow completes the effect of a quaint, if not dimensionally uniform, holiday destination.
Full on expanded village on top of the desk, with tree in background.

Report from Retirement

So, I have been retired from my (paid) job at the Smithsonian Center for Folklife and Cultural Heritage for almost a year. How has it been, those of you contemplating “the big move” might ask?

I do like to loaf around, sitting or lying on the couch, reading magazines or stuff on my phone (you can waste a lot of time doing that, but also learn a lot from whatever is coming through your news feed!). And I do watch my share of streaming content. But that definitely gets boring after awhile. For me, it’s more a reward than a default.

I also like to sleep in. But, two or three days a week, I rouse myself to go to water exercise at our local high school pool. We are mostly “women of a certain age” although a few are younger and occasionally a stray man will wander in. It is a fun and well-traveled group, who casually say things like, “When I was in Paris last week…” or “I just got back from a three-week trip down the Amazon.” (That from the oldest of us, too. She’s been down the Amazon at least twice.) I can also throw in things like “I won’t be here for the next few weeks because we’re going to the Nordic Countries… see you later!”

Once a week, if I’m “in town,” I go into my old office. Some people, when they retire, don’t want to go within miles of their old office. (In fact, they move away to avoid going anywhere near it, I think in some cases.) But, I like my old office, and the people therein.

I am an official Smithsonian volunteer, which comes with perks. But mostly I wanted to be able to have lunch once a week with my best work buds, and get all the latest gossip. Since we don’t have a receptionist on duty at the Front Desk, that is my realm and it is very cozy. From there, I dispense wisdom, answer the general number phone messages if there are any, and let people into the front door who don’t have a key card or forgot theirs. I also do some work, if anyone needs anything done. It’s fun!

Those are my regular gigs, along with physical therapy (ugh, that comes with getting older). If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you have followed our travels this summer and into the early fall. Trips with husband Steve and with “girl pals” help break up the “monotony.”

Keeping intellectually and professionally relevant, learning new things and accomplishing service to local and further afield communities, is also something that retirees have time to do. For my part, I fulfilled a goal to take the Master Gardener class here in Northern Virginia, and work toward certification as a Master Gardener volunteer. Class began in September and just ended (with graduation!) a few weeks ago, and it was A LOT OF WORK! Now we are “interns” and have 60 hours of service to do before certification. Not for the faint of heart.

I’m also serving on the American Folklore Society Executive Board. That keeps me on my toes, and I have also met a few folks in our field that I didn’t know before who are on the Board. Hard to believe, since it is a small field and I have been involved for the past 40 years, but it’s been great.

That’s a glimpse into how I’ve been spending my retirement so far, and here are a few pix from the adventure. Keep tuning in to find out what else I’ve been doing, seeing, experiencing, and feel free to share your own retirement activities in the comments!

Our proud Master Gardener “graduates” – though we’re quick to say we only graduated from the class, and into our internship phase. Lots of hours to go before certification!
My sister spent a month in nearby Alexandria this fall, and we did a lot of fun things, like a boat ride to National Harbor. (She’s older than me, but it’s the hair that makes her look younger! I can’t be bothered with that sort of maintenance!)
A new food adventure this fall was a class on classic French baking. Croissants are a lot of work and easy to mess up! I think I will just go to a French bakery and appreciate why they cost so much…
Our own garden yielded many tomatoes, peppers and other veg and herbs this season. My hubby Steve is in charge of the tomatoes, I kind of oversee the rest and actually pick it and usually figure out what to do with it all. We just picked the last of the tomatoes before the hard frost this week.

My latest collage project has been making new business cards (from my old ones) with a unique mini collage on one side! Gave these all out at the annual American Folklore Society meetings in Albuquerque earlier this month… time to start a new batch!

I thought we’d get up to our cabin in Pennsylvania more than we have this fall, but busy, busy, busy here! We did catch some good autumn colors. Looking forward to more time up there.

Mellowing Out at Mallows Bay

Combining a history and nature lesson with a kayak trip, on a beautiful fall day, with one of my best buddies…what could be better? This was the case a couple of weeks ago, when my friend and kayaking companion, Arlene, and I set off for Mallows Bay, Maryland, the home of the – ooh spooky! – Ghost Fleet.

What is the Ghost Fleet, you ask? Well, as our kayak and history guide from the excellent Atlantic Kayak Company explained to the group of about 12 intrepid kayakers, it started out as a bunch of wooden and iron ships built for the U.S. Navy during World War I. Due to the fact that the Navy needed a lot of ships fast (the goal was to build 1,000 of these in short order) the ships were assembled kind of slap-dash, and not always by the most experienced ship builders.

So, from the very beginning, they had their problems. And, not too many of them actually got to see service during the war. After the war, most of them were towed to languish sadly in Norfolk, VA, slowly decaying to the point of uselessness. Their fate was to be scrapped for any usable metal, and then removeded to a shallow bay on the Maryland side of the Potomac to be burned.

The problem, or really the good thing for us today, is that the heavy ship bottoms sunk in the mucky bottom of Mallows Bay, so what remained below the water line just kind of slouched there, slowly returning to, or being made into homes for, nature. (The remaining metal was also gleaned by locals hard hit by the Great Depression, so they helped feed many a human family during that dark period.)

Today the “bones” of the ships, in various stages of on-going decomposition, have bushes, trees, and grasses growing in their centers, and are home to all manner of wildlife. Birds, beavers, bees – and lots of other things that don’t start with the letter “b.”

A guided tour of some of the most interesting ships makes for an eerily lovely paddle. Especially during low tide (yes, the Potomac is tidal!) one can marvel at the size of the ships by noting their outlines, look for evidence of the teaming life, and learn interesting factoids.

This is a highly recommended trip for those in the DC area who like being out on the water, speculating on the way nature takes over what people abandon, and imagining the lost majesty of these vessels…now ghosts of their former selves, and totally appropriate for Halloween season! Enjoy some snaps of the experience, though somehow my photos taken from kayaks are less than stellar. But, you’ll get the idea…

Our tour started with a fun mini-lecture (with illustrations!) from our guide, explaining the history of the Ghose Fleet.
Then we proceeded to the launch, seen here. They have a great easy in, easy out kayak dock, very appreciated for us “older” kayakers. The ship seen in the distance is a newer addition to the Ghost Fleet. The Accomac saw service during WWII, and later as a passenger ferry.
This is the sort of ship remains you see most of, a sort of raggedy collection of wood and bolts, sunk into the mud, with nature taking over. It’s quite fascinating, really, though it might not look like much here!
You can paddle very close to the ship remains to get info from the guide about construction, where beavers built their homes, and trying to catch a glancing at smaller migratory birds, etc.
Though we didn’t see any actual river otters (we were told they sometimes do), I appreciated that our kayak was an Old Town Otter model! We did see eagles a couple of times, as well as a kingfisher, the ubiquitous cormorants, and some small warblers in the barberry bushes having a fall feast. The tree colors were a bit subdued but pretty, and the sky was the most marvelous blue as seen here.
One last shot of the tallest part of one of the wrecks (can’t recall which one) which makes a good landmark and gauge for the tide height. Really a memorable trip on the best possible day!

Tallinn, Above and Below

Our visit to the Nordic countries at the beginning of the summer season seems so long ago now, viewing it from the end of August. But, it still merits one more blog post!

When we discovered during our trip planning that Tallinn, Estonia is just an easy two-hour ferry ride across the Baltic Sea from Helsinki, we had to take advantage of the opportunity to add another country to our itinerary. We also read, and heard, that Tallinn had a lovely Medieval old town, on the Unesco World Heritage list, had many interesting sites, and was very walkable.

After a pleasant, uneventful passage on the huge ferry, we arrived at the port entry, and decided to walk to the Old Town where we had booked our accommodations. It’s not very far, but you have to cross a couple of very busy roads, and there was a lot of constuction, so it was not the most fun walk ever with roller board baggage in tow.

When we got to the vicinity of our Air BNB, we could not for the life of us find the entrance to the apartment building. Enter a very nice older woman who took us through a (secret?) basement passage, pointing us to the lobby of our building, and then disappeared. Was she a magical guide, or just a local who was more than done with us, once she had safely delivered us to the proper address? Either way, she did some clueless strangers a big favor, which boded well for our visit. (Come to find out, the entrance was virtually around the corner, but the directions were rather opaque.)

During our first foray into Old Town, we sought sustenance. It is de rigeur to try one of several pancake restaurants sprinkled throughout the area. This was not your light, airy and namby-pamby French style crepe, nor your doughy American breakfast offering. A heavy-duty affair, stuffed to the gills with meat, cheese (and maybe some nod to vegetables) arrived promptly to our table. Truth in advertising, the Kompressor has myriad choices of filled pancakes, and at very reasonable prices. Prepare to be as stuffed as the pancake if you eat it all. The dark wood interior also looks very Medieval (and maybe not redecorated since that era), to get you in the mood for exploring Old Town.

Stopping by the Visitor Center right in the heart of Old Town (where the staff all seems to have excellent English and are very helpful) will orient you to the city with maps, brochures, and answers to even your dumbest questions. We discovered (on our own, since we didn’t think to ask) that the Maritime Museum, which was just down the street from our apartment, had evening hours that day, and also a senior discount! It is located in one of the gate towers flanking the city, and is well worth a visit.

That was a highlight of the above ground cultural sites, but the next day, we did the below part. After venturing outside the gates to visit the market near the train station, and a very cool contemporary arts district, we finally figured out where the entrance to the Kiek in de Kök Fortification Museum was located. This museum complex includes an underground tour of the “Bastion passages,” an extensive series of tunnels.

Upon later comparing notes with a number of friends who have also visited Tallinn, not one of them had descended into this fascinating find. It is apparently not on too many of the “what to do if you only have two or three days in Tallinn” lists, but it was one of my favorite parts of our time there. Eerie, full of layers of history, and a cool respite from the unseasonably warm day, it hit several marks for this tourist!

My other favorite find was the (free!) medical museum, the Town Hall Pharmacy, purported to be “the oldest pharmacy in Europe that has continually operated on the same premises.” Just a couple of rooms, really, but very interesting and right in the thick of town center.

All in all, we really enjoyed our two nights, and almost three days in Tallinn. We missed a lot of things, naturally, but I think we packed in a good deal. Above and below, Tallinn ranks high in my recommendation of Nordic-adjacent cities to visit. Check some more details in the photos below, and feel free to let me and other readers know what you enjoyed if you have ever been there!

Steve eats pancakes in Tallinn
Steve tucks into a pancake (pictured is half of the pancake!). We got a salad to round things out.
There are a lot of levels in Tallinn, and a lot of ups and downs. And street art, too. Here, you can see how the lower and upper portions of the city form a sort of layer cake of building ages and styles.
The Maritime Museum entrance is right through this gate, in Fat Margaret’s tower. Like Finland, the Estonians do a good job of repurposing historic structures for new uses.
The first portion of the underground museum is a collection of stone carvings from various locations, relocated in theme rooms to this expansive space. It was really the tip of the proverbial iceberg!
This might give you some inkling of the extent, and levels, of the series of underground passageways. It goes on and on through space and time, revealing that the tunnels were used as a route for the military, a bomb shelter, a storage area for Russian propaganda, a punk rock band practice space, a homeless encampment. As if the sort of creepy space was not creepy enough, there are mannequins dressed in period clothes, colored mood lights, and even some ghostly hologram type stuff.
There’s also an above ground portion of the underground museum (three or four floors worth) which is part of remaining section of wall in this once-totally-walled city.
My “art shot” of the Orthodox Cathedral, from one of the upstairs windows of the museum. We ventured into this impressive edifice but found it to be dark, gloomy and not at all inviting. It’s pretty from the outside though.
Red flowers in foreground at a park in Tallinn, Estonia
You can take a tram or bus to other parts of the city, if you get tired of the historic Old Town, or just want to find out what else Tallinn has to offer. We trammed it to the Kadrioru Park, home to Tsar Peter I’s summer home, Kadrioru Castle (reminiscent of Versailles, and now an art museum) which was closed for the day by the time we got there. We visited the Japanese garden, shown here. One could spend a whole day just visiting this park.
Art shot #2, the Town Square turned upside down in an apothecary jar.

Nordic Adventures II: Boatloads of History

The Nordic countries are all about water, and ships tell a lot about their intertwined histories. Two excellent museums featuring historic watercraft, the Vasa Museum in Stockholm and the Viking Ships Museum in Roskilde (near Copenhagen) captured our imaginations and filled us in on both the life of the eras the ships represent, and the intricacies of underwater archeology projects on a huge scale.

When we asked friends for advice of what to see in Stockholm, just about everyone suggested the Vasa Museum. Much more than “a museum with a really big ship” (paraphrasing one of my friends), it is a museum with a REALLY big ship (four stories high and about 2/3 as long as a football field) as its centerpiece, and lots of interesting interpretation about the ship’s origins and how it got into the museum.

Basically, this towering war ship was built in the early 1620s to show off the prowess of the Swedish king, Gustav II Adolph. It was elaborately carved and painted, fit out with 64 cannon ports, and could accommodate 130 crew members and 300 soldiers. The problem is, it was not particularly seaworthy, and sunk on its maiden voyage in the Stockholm harbor, within sight of its launching dock.

There it lay, 105 feet below, settling further and further into the mud, until some enterprising individuals in the late 1950s finally conquered the technology to bring it up and stabilize the old wood so it wouldn’t crumble into bits. At the museum, side galleries with the story of this incredible endeavor, as well as galleries exploring the building of the ship and life around the docks in the 1600s, and lots more, garnish the ship itself. But, let’s face it, the sheer bulk and remarkable (relative) state of preservation of the behemoth are the big draw. I would definitely echo the advice of our friends and urge you to put this on your itinerary should you find yourself in Stockholm.

The second ship museum we visited is a short train ride from Copenhagen. This is not a “Viking Museum” per se, but rather a museum housing the iron and (some) wood skeletons of five ships of various sizes from the Viking era. These five ships explain a lot about the day to day life of those times (circa 800-1050 BC). Vikings, many people assume, were just a bunch of rowdy marauders who sailed around plundering other people’s fortunes.

Well, there was actually some of that, but as the ships reveal, not all Viking boats were used for sea-going treasure seeking. There is a small and larger war ship, but also ships used for local travel and ferrying merchandise to market. These ships had served their purposes, and were deliberately sunk in a channel of the fjord (not one of those dramatic fjords like the ones in Norway, but a very pretty body of water with land on three sides anyway) to deter enemy ships from attacking the town.

Like the Vasa, the Viking ships of Roskilde were brought up and preserved. Unlike the Vasa, they were in much shallower water (and also a lot smaller and lighter), and the recovery team was able to build a sort of dam all around the site, pumped out the water, and what was left of the ships emerged from their watery graves. Very cool, and explained in detail in one gallery of the museum.

Having accomplished all sorts of tests on the remaining wood, the scientisits working on the project found that one ship had actually been built in Dublin, Ireland. (Now I understand why there are so many red haired Irish people!?) They built a replica of the ship, and sailed it to Ireland. The ship, and other replicas, reside at the docks of the museum and now you, too, can “play Viking” and help propel this and another replica around the fjord via sails and oars. (We opted out of this activity!) The museum grounds also include boat building and rope making shops.

I must also report that there is a very amazingly imposing cathedral in Roskilde, full of ornate tombs of various Danish royalty. The downtown has some great eating options, (including an Indian restaurant we treated ourselves to). So, this small city makes a great day trip from Copenhagen.

Two museums in two Nordic countries, lots of history represented in their ships. Check them out in some photos below, and visit them if you go on some Nordic Adventures of your own.

The bow end of the Vasa has an impressive amount of carving, relatively well preserved.
A scale model replica is near the original, to show how the ship would have been painted in its heyday.
Some of the carvings have been replicated and painted in the original colors as well. They were meant to be imposing, impressive, and scary to foes.
Big boat indeed! Note the tiny little people poised on the various overlooking balconies for scale!
Viking Ships Museum showing several of the five ships. Not as much “meat on the bones” as the Vasa, but several hundred years older so what do you expect? Beautiful view of the fjord from the wall of windows.
Boat building shop, as it says on the sign they were currently building a traditional Faroe Islands boat.
The replica that was sailed to Ireland, ready to take visitors out for a Viking experience!
Bonus, non ship photo: Roskilde Cathedral.
Bonus #2, interior of one of the tomb rooms in the Cathedral.

Ode to Noodles

Noodles. Such a silly-sounding word for something so delicious and endlessly variable, eaten by most cultures around the world, and beloved in our family.

Apparently the English “noodle” comes from the German “nudel” in case you’re interested. The word “noodles” conjures up comfort in my mind. Generously buttered and salted egg noodles were always the go-to food in our family when tummies were upset, or one was just feeling down. My sister and I still like to eat any kind of leftover buttered noodles for breakfast, even when we are happy. (Despite the possible guilt brought on by the calories, and sodium and cholesterol bomb.)

I recall one of my first encounters with a noodle that was not buttered or smothered in a vaguely Italian tomato-based sauce. (I’m looking at you, Chef Boyardee…and also remembering my mother’s signature canned tomato-soup, bacon and bell pepper spaghetti sauce recipe.) I was maybe about six or seven, and our family was having a rare meal out, at a Chinese restaurant in Patterson, New Jersey. I demanded spaghetti.

No amount of the grown-ups trying to explain that “Chinese people did not eat spaghetti” would console me. I had to have spaghetti; nothing else would do. And so, the waiter, who knew perfectly well that “Chinese people” might not call it spaghetti but certainly did eat noodles, brought something that was, well, not spaghetti but was definitely in the noodle family. Lo mein maybe? Wish I could say it was a big hit with me, but I think someone else had to eat it.

Fast forward to international cuisine opening to me like the beautiful flower it is. My personal awakening involving various noodle dishes thankfully got better as I got older. I recall the first time the amazing world of Vietnamese pho was revealed to me, back around 1990 when visiting my colleague Lynn in Hawaii. (Then the state folk arts coordinator of Hawaii, but later to become my friend and confidant when she moved to the same position in New Hampshire, and we conspired in the co-curation of the 1999 New Hampshire program… but that is another story entirely.)

I almost cried out to my huge bowl of noodles, swimming together in fragrant broth with its compatriots of lean beef, Thai basil, and bean sprouts – “Where have you been all my life?” Well, maybe I’m being dramatic, but still. It was truly life-changing. Move over, buttered noodles, there’s another crave-worthy comfort food in town.

Today, as for many years, the homemade noodles and dumplings at Chinatown Express in what is left of downtown DC’s Chinatown is the go-to for cheap and authentic eats. Many an intern has been introduced to this modest, no-frills establishment on 6th Street, and it is a de rigueur outing for my daughter and I whenever she visits DC. I even convinced our office to order a boatload of dumplings and noodles from there for our holiday party this past year. I should be getting a commission?!

Our new family favorite at the Vietnamese complex, The Eden Center (usually where we go for pho because you can just throw a lime wedge in any direction and hit a place serving pho there) is actually a tiny Thai Street Food joint, Kao Sarn. Their noodle soups will bring back the memory of eating at any small partially outdoor stall in Bangkok or Chiang Mai by anyone who has visited Thailand and experienced “real street food. ” (Well, except for the price, but then you don’t have to fly half way across the globe to eat here if you’re a local, so there’s that.)

In short, there’s a whole world of noodles out there to conquer, and while nowadays I am partial to Asian noodle dishes, despite my childhood encounter with “Chinese spaghetti,” I have absolutely nothing against attacking noodles and noodle-adjacent dishes of all shapes, sizes, sauces, and cultural origins with gusto. Pierogies, halushki, ravioli, wagon wheels, seashells, carbonara, momos, spaetzle, ramen, udon, soba… the list is inexhaustible.

Hungry yet? If not, these photos of various noodle experiences will surely put you over the edge. Go forth, eat noodles, and be comforted.

I honestly don’t recall what noodle dish this is, but I would eat it again in a heartbeat.
One of the many trips to Chinatown Express, I think with friend and colleague Lora. I usually default to the chicken noodle soup, though all the flavors I’ve tried have been equally yummy. As well as the dumplings. And the scallion oil accompaniment is a revelation too.
Whenwe visited Hanoi, Steve discovered he could order pho for breakfast. Not only that, but after he polished off one bowl, he could ask for another. The tiny hotel we were staying in did not have its own kitchen, they just stepped outside into the alley and flagged down a street vendor.
Our friend Ang, who was our cultural guide during a trip to Thailand, demonstrates how to eat “real Thai street food” in Chiang Mai.
M.E. slurps up some Boat Noodle Soup at the Eden Center.
Just before Christmas last year, we visited Philadelphia. Their Chinatown has some amazing noodle establishments as well, including this one.
Honestly, I do not recall taking this photo but it came up when I searched my photos for “noodles.” I think I would skip “sauerkraut balls” (sorry to say) but cabbage and noodles, called by the Slovaks “halushki,” is always OK by me.
A big old bowl of Japanese noodles with a side of California roll, in New York City. Excuse me while I start dinner…